Why do I have dark circles under my eyes?
Why do I have dark circles under my eyes?
By Dr. Meg Minasian, Founder of The MW Clinic London
Dark circles are common, multifactorial, and most often related to skin thinning, shadowing and normal anatomy rather than pigmentation alone.
Dark circles under the eyes are one of the most common concerns I see in clinic. Many patients tell me they feel their eyes make them look tired or drawn, even when they feel well and rested. The reasons dark circles develop are often misunderstood, which is why treatments can be disappointing if the underlying cause isn’t properly addressed.
Skin thinning and ageing
One of the main reasons dark circles become more noticeable with age is skin thinning in the under-eye area. This is the thinnest skin on the face and, over time, it loses collagen and structural support.
As the skin becomes thinner, the underlying muscle and blood vessels become more visible. These deeper structures have a purple-red hue, which shows through the skin and creates the appearance of darkness. This is not true pigmentation in most cases – it is largely a skin transparency issue.
A lack of sebaceous glands
The under-eye area is unique because it contains no sebaceous (oil) glands. This means the skin here cannot naturally produce oil to protect and lubricate itself in the way other facial skin can.
- It dehydrates more easily
- It is more vulnerable to environmental stress
- It shows signs of thinning and ageing earlier
Why skincare is often neglected under the eyes
Many people are understandably cautious about applying skincare close to their eyes, worrying that products may migrate into the eyes and cause irritation. As a result, the under-eye area is often under-treated or avoided altogether, despite being the area that needs support the most.
Hydration and skin quality
Hydration is often the first place I start when addressing dark circles. Dehydrated skin appears dull, fragile and thinner, which exaggerates darkness and shadowing. Improving hydration – both internally and within the skin – can noticeably improve the appearance of the under-eye area.
Normal anatomy and shadowing
Another major contributor is normal facial anatomy. The bony orbit of the skull creates a natural contour where the cheek rises and then drops into the eye socket. This transition, often referred to as the tear trough, creates a shadow.
What many people do not realise is that both fat and bone also shrink in this area as we age, further deepening this contour and increasing shadowing. This is a normal part of ageing, but it is also why the under-eye area must be treated with extreme caution.
For this reason, botulinum toxin should never be placed in the lower or lateral orbicularis oculi muscle, as weakening this muscle can worsen support, alter blink mechanics, and negatively affect lymphatic drainage.
The role of skincare
Retinol-based night care
Carefully formulated retinol can help stimulate collagen production and improve skin thickness over time. Used correctly, retinol can strengthen the delicate under-eye skin and reduce the visibility of underlying colour.
I often recommend Skin Diary Night Repair Therapy, which is designed to support skin regeneration overnight while remaining suitable for delicate areas when introduced gradually and used correctly.
Daytime protection with SPF
UV exposure accelerates collagen breakdown and skin thinning. A broad-spectrum SPF in your daytime eye or face cream is essential to protect the under-eye area and prevent further worsening of dark circles.
I frequently recommend a Skin Diary Age Defence Day Cream that combines high-level UV protection with DNA repair enzymes. These enzymes are supported by robust clinical research demonstrating their effectiveness in helping skin repair daily environmental damage, which is particularly important for the fragile under-eye area.
Treatment options – a cautious, medical approach
When it comes to treating dark circles, safety and anatomy are paramount. The under-eye area is high-risk, and not all treatments are appropriate.
Treatments I advise avoiding
I always strongly advise patients to avoid treatments involving cannula-based filler injections under the eyes. Cannula use in this area can damage delicate lymphatic drainage, which may lead to persistent swelling and worsening under-eye puffiness. In my view, the risks often outweigh any potential benefit, particularly when the issue is skin quality or shadowing rather than true volume loss.
Intradermal polynucleotides
Where treatment is appropriate, intradermal polynucleotides can be considered. These are used to support hydration, skin quality and regeneration rather than adding volume. When administered carefully with local anaesthetic, they can be almost pain-free.
BBL for those who prefer to avoid injections
For patients who do not feel comfortable with injections, BBL (BroadBand Light) can be a useful option in selected cases. It can improve skin quality and tone without needles or significant downtime. You can read more about BBL here: Sciton BBL treatments.
Frequently asked questions about dark circles
Are dark circles caused by lack of sleep?
Poor sleep can worsen dark circles, but it is rarely the main cause. Skin thinning, anatomy and shadowing are often more significant factors.
Can creams completely remove dark circles?
Skincare can improve hydration and skin quality, but it cannot change underlying anatomy. This is why realistic expectations are important.
Why do dark circles get worse with age?
As we age, skin thins and both fat and bone volume reduce in the under-eye area, increasing transparency and shadowing.
Individual assessment is key
Dark circles are almost always multifactorial, which is why no single treatment works for everyone. In my clinic, I assess skin quality, hydration, anatomy (including fat and bone support), and relevant lifestyle or medical factors before recommending any treatment.
If you are concerned about dark circles and would like a proper medical assessment, you are very welcome to arrange a consultation with me.
